Exotic
Fragrances
Attars
The art of attar
making goes back over 5,000 years and the equipment and techniques used
to create attars has changed very little in all that time. A
true
attar is a perfume oil made from flower petals distilled in water using
low heat and pressure. Attars are made in what is basically a
still that uses no modern gauges or thermostats. Hundreds of
pounds of flower petals are collected and placed inside a vessel called
a deg. A long bamboo pipe leads from the deg to a copper
vessel
that contains sandalwood oil. Water is added to the flower
petals
and the lid is sealed with cotton and clay. A fire is lit
under
the deg. As the steam collects, it condenses and flows
through
the bamboo pipe to the copper vessel.
The Master
Distiller constantly monitors the temperature by feeling the deg and
listening to the sounds inside the deg. If the fire gets too
hot
it can burn the flowers. The combination of low heat and the
pressure from the sealed deg preserves the fragrance oils and makes
them much purer than the hotter steam distillation method used to
obtain essential oils.
The copper vessel containing the
sandalwood oil that is receiving the fragrance oil and vaporized water
is continually rotated by hand to blend the oil and water and keep them
from becoming too hot.
Distillation is stopped at the end
of each day so the mixture can cool overnight. As the oil
cools
it separates from the water. Each morning the water is poured
off
and put back in the deg. Fresh flowers are added and the process starts
all over again. This is repeated for 15 to 20 days until the
sandalwood oil is completely saturated with the fragrance.
Unfortunately,
rising prices are causing some of the attar makers to either
close
their operations or resort to using synthetic fragrances and paraffin
bases. True attars are becoming quite rare.
The
attars we carry are true attars. They contain no synthetic
ingredients and the base is true sandalwood oil rather than the cheaper
paraffins.
CO2
Extracts
CO2
extracts are extremely pure plant extracts. The CO2
extraction
process uses carbon dioxide under extremely high pressure to
extract essential oils. Under high pressure, the carbon
dioxide
turns into a liquid and acts as a solvent. When the pressure
is
decreased, the carbon dioxide turns back into a gas, leaving no residue
behind.
Many CO2 extracts have fresher, cleaner, and crisper
aromas than steam-distilled essential oils and they smell more similar
to the living plants.
Crystalized Essences
Crystalized
essences are made with a base of refined Styrax tree resin into which
essential oils are infused, pressed and crystallized.
Crystalized essences are also created by nature in the form of
Ambergris, Hyraceum and other like substances.
Essential Oils
Today,
most common essential oils are steam distilled. Raw plant
material is put into a distillation apparatus over water. As
the
water is heated the steam passes through the plant material, vaporizing
the volatile compounds. The vapors flow through a coil where
they
condense back to liquid, which is then collected in the receiving
vessel. This mixture of water and essential oil is separated
and
bottled.
Some companies use a solvent extraction process.
In this process a chemical solvent is used to pull out the
aromatic compounds. This renders a substance called concrete.
The concrete is then dissolved in alcohol to remove the
solvent.
Residues of the solvent often remain.
The essential oils
we carry do not use the solvent extraction process. We only
carry
essential oils that that have been steam distilled.
Perfume
Essences
Perfume
essences are undiluted, concentrated perfumes. They are much
thicker in consistency than diluted perfumes so are also called perfume
oils.
Perfume essences are entirely different from essential
oils. Perfume essences are blended by a perfumer to create a
variety of scents. Learning to create these blends is an
artistic
skill that takes many years to learn.
Tinctures
Tinctures
differ from essential oils in that they are produced using alcohol
rather than steam. This method is used for natural materials that do
not give up their scent as easily such as animal matter and very dense
or fibrous plant matter. Tinctures are also made with
essential
oils, absolutes and concretes. All of our tinctures are made
using organic non-denatured alcohol.